Chef leaning against bright orange and yellow storefront window.

A Japanese Gem in Soho


Tucked away in a quiet corner of Soho is Koya—a small, perfectly formed Japanese restaurant where the udon noodles are made fresh, the space is calm and welcoming, and the hospitality feels genuine. That tone is set by Shuko Oda, who I had the pleasure of photographing for my London Restaurateurs series.


Shuko is chef-director of Koya, with locations in Soho and the City, and she also helped launch Koya Ko in Hackney. But it was here, in the original Soho spot, where we met. Despite the lunchtime rush—there was already a queue forming—she couldn’t have been more generous with her time. Friendly, relaxed, and very present.

Close-up of hands resting on dark hexagonal tiled floor.

I tried the house udon, simple in appearance but deeply satisfying. Food like this only works when there’s serious skill behind it, and you can tell how much care goes into every detail—from the food to the flow of the place. The balance of ease and precision feels very much like Shuko herself.


Koya might be small, but it has a big following—and for good reason. When the food and the welcome are this good, people are happy to queue.

A person in a white blouse and dark pants crouches by a tiled wall in an urban setting.
Bowl of udon noodle soup with chicken, green onions and broth served with a black spoon.
Side profile of a person wearing glasses and a patterned sweater, focused on studying at a desk.
A person wearing a white shirt stands at a blue curtained doorway with long black hair and a gentle smile.
Portrait of someone with long dark hair wearing a white top on a city street with soft blurred background.
Portrait against black tile wall showing someone in white top and dark pants crouching down on sidewalk.
Staff member working in busy restaurant kitchen with stainless steel equipment and cookware in background.

Professional black and white portrait of a photographer in a black turtleneck holding a vintage camera.

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